2009年3月18日 星期三

Chanel 2006---spring___high class women & schoolgirl























































The audience at Chanel's spring presentation was greeted by the sight of a gargantuan computer screen and keyboard, placed at the end of the runway. It seemed like the one unifying symbol of everything Karl Lagerfeld sent out in the collection: all the high-speed information about every trend of the season, communicated directly onto a computer screen in real time. Faster than even Style.com can report it.
It was as if the ever-restless Lagerfeld, sitting in his studio at the Rue Cambon, had designed while continually hitting the refresh button on his vision of the global domain of the eternal "CC." What should the new Chanel jacket look like for spring '06? Tight and neat, and worn with Bermudas. What's the news on the dress? Nude chiffon, banded in black. There's a printy, scarfy feeling out there: Bring on a few billowy Art Deco blouses. Nail "schoolgirl" in a tweed jumper. Check off crunchy lace with a sweet white A-line T-shirt and skirt. Compress puffed sleeves and boleros into a cropped taffeta jacket. Salute "folkloric" with a Spanish-pattern black-and-white sweater and a flounced skirt. And as for the chain belt? No problem—Chanel owns it!
Part of the point of this is that Lagerfeld's febrile capacity for instant-uptake fashion can fill a football pitch—and yet still all look like Chanel. In reality, fashion is now more about the availability of a gazillion simultaneous choices rather than the single, old-school designer diktat. With this collection, Lagerfeld broke the taboo on saying that out loud—while also proving that a strong brand, strongly directed, can surf any trend without losing its identity. Does that mean Chanel has resigned itself to adapting to the culture of fast-fashion disposability, though? Oh, not at all. The fifties circle skirt and poufy taffeta dresses at the end of the show were pretty time-transcenders that might live in any girl's wardrobe for decades to come.

Chanel 2006---A/W

06 small black dress CHANEL autumn and winter, re-interpreting the signs of dark tweed, decorated with the same color pattern decals camellia. Contrast Contrast is more attractive: Men's high-necked white shirt and black tie, with miniskirts, ultra-high personal small sheepskin boots - CHANEL Victor / Victoria gender Games mash out again. Sports flu camellias, roses have red, gray or lilac color, whether it is with ice ballet style soft leather skirts short skirts, and rib Net-style vest, jacket and coator decorated in fashionable black and white jacket on, are so exciting. Season debut edge decorative knee black ribbon bow narrow leg jeans, with Chinese-style white vest, or a dinner jacket and black leather gloves Lu means, having another style.

Chanel---Paris---Mascow Karl inspired by COCO's love story
















Chanel最近發布的Paris-Moscow高級手工坊系列,可看到當時Coco Chanel從俄羅斯得到的靈感創意. 多年來,Chanel致力於保存Desrues珠寶配飾、Lemarié羽飾山茶花工坊、Lesage刺繡工坊、Massaro鞋履工坊、Michel帽飾工坊、Goossens金銀工坊、Guillet花卉工坊的傳統與未來發展;同時自2002年起,Karl Lagerfeld每年都會推出以一個特別的地點為名的系列,向這些大師們致上最高敬意.這次Chanel在Karl Lagerfeld的帶領下推出的Paris-Moscow高級手工坊系列,是根據當年Coco Chanel女士與俄羅斯大公爵Dimitri Pavlovitch的情史設計而成,裡面包括了Karl 個人最喜歡的三個俄羅斯元素:結構主義,帝國主義和俄羅斯傳統元素.

Chanel 2007---F/W

巴黎直擊 CHANEL耍個性 袖子加格子 頂著一頭蓬散直髮,踏著隨意的步伐,07秋冬香奈兒(CHANEL)女郎從優雅的上城,搬到個性十足的下城,創意總監Karl Lagerfeld幾季以來致力將香奈兒年輕化,秋冬設計在高腰線條營造的優雅氣息之下,更增添了街頭風味,藉由袖子展現多層次搭配,與大格子毛呢、格紋長靴,既保有香奈兒的經典精神,也注滿年輕活力。 香奈兒07秋冬秀照例在巴黎大皇宮(Grand Palais)舉行,秀場設計純白色如雪地,舞台上方一朵朵白色山茶花,像雲朵般高掛天空,令人倍覺清朗舒適。 主打高腰線 秋冬香奈兒整體輪廓線條拉長,及踝的窄長外套抓出高腰線條後,配上過膝長靴,讓整個人看起來又瘦又高,比例修長。本季無論是大衣、夾克或洋裝,袖子以及肘的五分袖或是七分袖為主,而且袖型變寬,讓活動更方便。袖長縮短主要是為了展現多層次搭配,內搭無論是柔軟的襯衫、T恤或毛衣,都在領口與袖口多出一截,增添色彩與變化。經典的斜紋軟呢(tweed)當然不會缺席,本季格子放大,並強調豐富的色彩,黑白格子外套內搭紫色毛衣,黑紅格子就內搭寶藍色上衣,搶眼度百分百。軟呢格子熱燒,連靴子和手袋也少不了,而且統統都和外套同一花色,讓整體感更強。整體系列再度讓人領教Karl Lagerfeld高度的設計功力,以及對市場掌握度,讓香奈兒既能保有經典,又不斷塑造潮流。

Chanel---2002F/W





































Paris, Jul 10, 2002/ FWD/ --- Though it remains the quintessential couture house, there was a novel sense of the new about Chanel fashion show in Paris Tuesday.
For starters, Chanel revealed its completely revamped salons redone Liaigre-style in dark woods, white walls, flat-screen TVs and stunning Murano chandeliers.
But above all it was the clothes themselves that, though classical in proportion, seemed fresh and modern.
Karl Lagerfeld big idea for Chanel this season was encrusting almost every look with semi-precious stones, crystals and baubles.
Tights came bedecked with hanging charms, ankles wrapped in jade and amber, and petticoats jangled with little metals, loops and squares.
Rings the size of gold balls in mother of pearl, nacre or glass sprouted from girls?hands.
For fall/winter, the Chanel couture silhouette is composed of strict, hugging jackets with peaked shoulders, paired with flared, gently pleated skirts beneath which were the aforementioned luxurious petticoats.
Models entered down the famed winding staircase so beloved by Mademoiselle Coco, their high-heels finished with tulle camellias.
Karl photo expert Eric Pfunder set up a series of digital video lenses and hand-held "spy" cameras that projected the show on flat screens and will later be used as footage for the house couture video.
Hairstylist Odile Gilbert outdid herself with upswept buns and extensions that covered the models?faces with hair veils.
And the soundtrack, beginning with the tick of a metronome and interspersed with the tingling of the petticoats, was suitably melodic and a bit different, like the show and the setting.
"Don't you like the new decor? It is very new," said Lagerfeld, just like his attire -- Diesel jeans from his own selection for the jeans specialist, white high-collared shirt and a dapper black satin frock coat.
Karl picked it up from Hedi Slimane collection for Christian Dior shown eight days ago.
It won't reach stores for months, but he is wearing it already.


Karl Lagerfeld带来了梦幻的2002 Chanel春夏高级时装。公主的外套镶嵌着雨滴状的宝石,薄纱的长袍上缎带编织的花纹,整场秀粉红色贯穿始终,高雅贵气,品味不凡

CHANEL SPRING 2001 RTW





































The starting point of the new year, exhibits the happiness of this line. The stage and venue lighting is clourful, together with the light colour of the collection, giving the feeling of relaxation.

CHANEL FALL 2001 RTW













































































No longer the light, bright and colourful style in Fall. Light brown Kakhi and beige are suitable for the season indeed. Given famale garment and stylish leather long boots, it showed the upgraded status of women, without the loss of the women's softiness.